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About a year ago I decided I'd lived too long without a cordless nailgun. You see, I'm a do-it-yourselfer. I like to build things. Most of that drive to build, (and now knowledge to do so) comes from all the ramps I've built over the years, starting when I was a kid. The ramps led to doing building stuff around my house and for friends, and well, ultimately to a cordless nailgun. I know, dreamy.

So, to break in the nailgun I promptly built a quarterpipe in my friend/ colleague Brooke Geery's garage. We decided to do it using strictly items anyone could buy at home depot, including the coping since she wanted to write a how-to for her blog. [While usually I'd use a slightly heavier steel pipe for coping, on a small quarterpipe of this size the fence post stock we used worked suprisingly well. (Over a larger surface it would ding up and it doesn't slide very well)].

Below is the instructional blog she wrote about the quarterpipe we built... with pictures. Keep in mind that there are several ways to achieve the same result on a few of these steps. A few things like the platform we were able to do a simplified version of because of the small size of the ramp. Larger ramps will require more support in various areas. This thing is solid as a rock one year later.

Thanks to Brooke for allowing us to post this. Befriend her here on BFD.

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The sun has been shining and the skateparks glistening, but as any Portlander knows, soon it will not be so skate-friendly in the Rose City. So this winter, I decided it was time to build my own indoor spot, in the form of a two foot quarterpipe in my garage. For less than $100, and with a couple hours and one strong male friend, I was able to build a perfect little quarterpipe that will have me shredding all winter. So i figured i'd pass on the knowledge so you can do it to

You will need:

-Eight 2x4s ($14)

-Three 3/4-inch pre cut 2'x 4' plywood planels ($32)

-One sheet 1/4 Plywood ($22)

-One sheet masonite ($7)

-One piece steel coping ($11)

-One Box screws (wood or drywall) $10

Hammer, nails, screw driver (drill), circular saw (we used a nail gun, which was helpful, but not entirely necessary)

Step 1

Decide what size transitions you want. Bigger transitions will be mellower, smaller will be steeper. We went with a 4' radius on a 2' ramp. Attach a measured string to the apex of a frame of two 2x4s (or you could stake it into the ground) and draw a perfect arc. Then cut along the lines. You can save time by cutting both transitions at once, or tracing the first transition onto the second to make sure you get accurate templates. Note: a wider ramp may require additional templates for stability. Don't span your 2x4's longer than eight feet.

Step 2

Set up your transitions about where the ramp will sit. Figure out how wide you want to make your quarterpipe and subtract the width of your side pieces (templates) from this width. This is how long you will cut the studs.

Step 3

Cut your ribs (2x4's). Lining them up and cutting more than one at a time makes quick and easy work, but make sure to double check they are all lined up perfectly and don't move, so they will all be the the same size.

Step 4

Start nailing in studs. First do the back supports, top and bottom. Then put in the the top rib, placing it in with the skinny end flush with the top of the transition. This is where you will set your coping, and the way to place the rest of the studs. However, the stud closest to the ground goes in flat, so you can get it all close to the ground as possible. To make the ramp sturdy, put in a stud every six inches or so.


Step 5

Frame out your deck. Make it wide enough that people can stand or do tricks on it. About a skateboard length is pretty safe. Now you will have the bones of your ramp. Because of the small nature of this quarter, we built our deck different than a larger quarter, as width-strength wasn't an issue. For a larger deck frame it just as you would a deck off your house, 16-inches off centered studs.

Step 6

Ply it up. Using 1/4 inch plywood, screw it to the studs. Quarter-inch plywood will bend easier but you'll need two layers to make things extra sturdy. One layer would be too spongy, and would break through in no time.

Step 7

Figure out how you want to set your coping. This is done by lining up the sheets for the top deck and the masonite. You may need to add more sheets to get it to set right. This should be accounted for when building your deck, and laying down your plywood.

Step 8

Screw on masonite. Be sure to counter sink your screws so that they don't stick out. Draw lines along the studs or use a chalk line, and don't be shy with the screws. Every six inches is a good rule.

Step 9

Cut your coping to size and screw it in. Do this by drilling holes, bigger on top and smaller on the bottom. The screw will actually sit inside the coping, and the larger holes you can angle back so you won't notice them when you are skating.

Views: 8395

Tags: DIY, how-to, quarterpipe, skate, skateboard

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Comment by Jack Ryan on October 3, 2010 at 2:32pm
sweet man i just built this in my garage and its like perfectt, thanks for the advicee(:
Comment by Darin Shaw on September 18, 2010 at 6:24pm
thats awesome I live in salem, or and was looking to build a ramp in my garage as it has just started raining this week.
thanks for the info
Comment by Peter Man on October 3, 2009 at 4:02pm
How many screws would each stud need 2 or 3
Comment by BFD Skate on September 29, 2009 at 2:39pm
Excellent. Glad it worked out... PVC should work out fine for a while.. especially for a youngster... it does tend to break after time. If it does, grab some steel. The upside to PVC is it's quieter, so you won't have the clanging of metal skate trucks on metal coping (which you can actually alleviate by spraying a spray foam insulation into the metal coping, should you choose to go that route).
Comment by Jason Gael on September 28, 2009 at 7:08am
I want to say thanks for the good descriptions and photos of this ramp build. I used the same 4' radius transition like you show in your pic, and it worked well! My 11 year old son and I made one 2' high, 8' wide. We used 2" PVC schedule 80 coping for now which works awesome. I also put some uni-direction casters on the back so it can be tilted on its back and moved very easily.

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